FASHION WEEK : KOSTIKA SPAHO, MARIEKA RATSMA & BIOMIMICRY

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A biomimetic 3D-printed shoe collaboration between Dutch fashion designer Marieka Ratsma and American architect Kostika Spaho, inspired by the skull of a bird, reflects the lightness and highly-differentiated bone structure of the cranium. The structure requires less support material, resulting in increased efficiency, strength and elegance — one of the many alluring aspects of biomimicry that, when combined with emerging technologies such as 3D mapping and printing, fuses an Old World, Da Vinci-esque principle of worshiping and mimicking the natural world to further human evolution, with an otherworldly animal-machine-human future (or present) straight out of Blade Runner. Kostika will be working with designers tomorrow in the lobby at Ace Hotel New York for our Fashion Week 3D printing jewelry design bazaar — unless Mother Nature biomimics us back on our asses. In which case, enjoy the reading material.

Top photo from Robin Charlotte, bottom photo by Thomas Van Schaik.


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During Fall Fashion Week in New York on Saturday, February 9, we’re partnering with Shapeways on an interactive encounter of technology and design that explores how digital technology can revolutionize the future of fashion — with Michael Schmidt, Dita Von TeeseMaterial ConneXion and some of today’s most forward-thinking CAD artists and analog jewelry designers.  

An interactive bespoke jewelry bazaar pairs jewelry designers including Ten Thousand Things, Verameat, Ursa Major, In God We Trust, Lindsey Adelman, Anna Sheffield and Chris Habana with CAD modelers Kostika Spaho, thefuturefuture and Duann Scott to offer participants the chance to realize their own custom-made pieces, made before their eyes with MakerBot 3D printers. 

At 2pm in the lobby, we host a group discussion for students about 3D printing and fashion’s future with designer Michael Schmidt —creator of wardrobes for luminaries like Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Deborah Harry and Madonna, and of the rope installation in the lobby of Ace Hotel & Swim Club — and 3D design evangelists Michael Curry and Duann Scott from MakerBot and Shapeways, respectively, and Brooks Hagan, textile artist and Acting Head of the Textile Department at RISD. All students are welcome to attend.

Material ConneXion presents a gallery show focused on the materiality of fashion to come, and Michael Schmidt — creator of wardrobes for luminaries like Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Deborah Harry and Madonna, and of the rope installation in the lobby of Ace Hotel & Swim Club — with Computational Designer Francis Bitonti unveils a fully articulated 3D-printed gown to be debuted by Dita Von Teese as muse and model at a party to herald fashion’s forthcoming digital future.

We’ll be posting interviews, inspiration boards, studio visits and more here in the days leading up to the big shebang.


We at Atelier Ace have a new neighbor in Portland’s Chinatown — Table of Contents, the mercantile of our dreams and a close friend to our other neighbors and old friends Studio J, the brainchild of Janet and John Jay. We recently raised a glass to TOC’s grand opening and then waltzed around the corner for an afterparty and feast at Studio J, with decorations by Janet and Hazel Cox and a lot of good friends in attendance. The very talented Johnny Le took photos.
Table of Contents just launched a new web shop, and they’re celebrating with a quick winter sale through Saturday. They’re also on the impressive roster of booksellers and presses at this weekend’s Publication Fair hosted by Publication Studio in The Cleaners at Ace Hotel Portland. Now is the time to indulge thyself with handsome books, objects and sweaters…

We at Atelier Ace have a new neighbor in Portland’s Chinatown — Table of Contents, the mercantile of our dreams and a close friend to our other neighbors and old friends Studio J, the brainchild of Janet and John Jay. We recently raised a glass to TOC’s grand opening and then waltzed around the corner for an afterparty and feast at Studio J, with decorations by Janet and Hazel Cox and a lot of good friends in attendance. The very talented Johnny Le took photos.

Table of Contents just launched a new web shop, and they’re celebrating with a quick winter sale through Saturday. They’re also on the impressive roster of booksellers and presses at this weekend’s Publication Fair hosted by Publication Studio in The Cleaners at Ace Hotel Portland. Now is the time to indulge thyself with handsome books, objects and sweaters…

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Between Sword + Fern's kinetic sound installation, Carly Mick's psychedelic cortex, Made on the Moon's secret planet, LiFT's wall of dreams and Kate Towers' springtime Shining, we're not sure where or at which point our minds were completely blown at Content 2012. Hope Reynolds of Folk Studios caught it all on cellulose acetate for the annals of history. Show us your own shots on Instagram @acehotel.

Between Sword + Fern's kinetic sound installation, Carly Mick's psychedelic cortex, Made on the Moon's secret planet, LiFT's wall of dreams and Kate Towers' springtime Shining, we're not sure where or at which point our minds were completely blown at Content 2012. Hope Reynolds of Folk Studios caught it all on cellulose acetate for the annals of history. Show us your own shots on Instagram @acehotel.


INTERVIEW : EMILY BAKER OF SWORD AND FERN

Emily Baker’s an OG jewelry designer, universe-maker and inspirational mover-shaker we’re lucky enough to call a neighbor and a friend in Portland, Oregon. Her line of jewelry, Sword + Fern — and the shop where it grows as thick as moss — acted as a catalyst for Portland design back in the day. We love watching her world expand — with sweetheart, Lovers synth-programmer and performance artist Kerby Ferris — into a life-giving and electro-sparked atmosphere in a league of its own.

Tonight, Emily takes over room 205 at Ace Hotel Portland for Content 2012, creating a sound installation with Kerby that will blow your fucking mind. Tickets can be picked up at Ace Hotel Portland, and $5 of each goes toward New York Cares to aid in hurricane relief efforts. Below, she gives a glimpse into what’s in store for us and talks about her new F/W collection, Memorizer. 

The new jewelry collection, Memorizer, is inspired by the ancient Pacific Northwest First Nations myth of Copper Woman, the First Mother of civilization — her warrior training traditions, wisdom and the power of intuition. I let my senses rule my process; my most beloved way to work is gathering materials by happenstance and sponteneity, messing up and leaving it, then coming back to it again. I found fluidity, the concept of water logic, and the secret world of my own tiny joys came to the surface while I was working on Memorizer.

The alchemic imperfections of hand-cut copper, hand-dyed wood in ombre chakra tones, engraved graphics on leather, silkscreened scarves, cast concrete and cut mirrors all blend together to tell the story of a secret society’s traditions and their visions of women’s ancient wisdom, power and strength, taking the wearer on a joyride to the space alive inside their own personal landscapes.

YOUJOY in room 205 will be a sensory exploration of shape and sound. Kerby’s bandmate Emily has been immersing as of late in Shambhala Buddhist teachings from Pema Chödrön and Chögyam Trungpa — and her current mantra, YOUJOY, emphasizes these principles of finding happiness just by being yourself. Kerby will create an interactive sound installation that will weave in and out of the new Memorizer pieces as well as the new Sword + Fern sculptural line, Water Logic — mobiles, wall hangings, textiles and other jewelry for the home.


Thanks to ADX for the signage — we’re pumped for Content 2012 tomorrow at Ace Hotel Portland. $5 of every ticket will be donated to aid hurricane relief through New York Cares.

Thanks to ADX for the signage — we’re pumped for Content 2012 tomorrow at Ace Hotel Portland. $5 of every ticket will be donated to aid hurricane relief through New York Cares.


Bobby Bonaparte founded LiFT Label on a wing and a prayer in Portland, Oregon — we like anyone who’s a sucker for a leap of faith, with the creative chops to make it work. Bobby’s launching his new collection at this year’s Content at Ace Hotel Portland, presented by smart. Steer yourself our way this Sunday — $5 of all tickets go toward Hurricane Sandy relief efforts.
I started drawing “LiFT” with an upwards arrow for the “i” on my skateboards when I was in the 8th grade. I hoped writing “LiFT” would give me more height or ‘lift’ when I was ollieing. Always seeking to progress, I found an ancient silkscreen that belonged to my aunt in my basement and taught myself how to silkscreen LiFT concepts.
I loved the creative freedom silkscreening gave me, I could put anything I wanted onto a shirt. I soon found that shirts and clothing generally were an incredible means of self expression. I began getting my message out and it seemed to resonate with people.  
After interning at Weiden + Kennedy in Tokyo, I took a job in marketing causing my creativity to lagg. After about a year, I got inspired do a line of tanks for summer with a new mission to connect with the community in a positive way, a commitment to the environment, philanthropy, pushing the envelope of design and manufacturing in the Northwest and maintaing an overall positive perspective.


That summer, the line of tank tops sold out and it became clear that I could make a living doing what I love. I left my salaried job to follow my passion for LiFT. Over a year later, LiFT is carried by rad shops in Portland, San Francisco and San Diego and has been featured in local media and on Portlandia and Girls.
I’m incredibly proud that my new line is sewn entirely in Portland. I pattern out the shirts and pants. The crewnecks with Pendleton pockets are knit here by Columbia Knit.  My chambray button up is made of organic cotton/hemp blend and my collaborative shirts with Foster Huntington and Mao Kudo are printed on organic cotton. It’s my goal to use more sustainable and eco-conscious fabrics moving forward, and it’s important to me to give back to the community by donating time, money and supplies to some amazing non-profits like Ecotrust, Salmon Nation, p:ear, The Listening Archive & Focus the Nation. LiFT is a member of 1% for the Planet, an organization founded by Yvon Chouinard, and we donate at least 1% of our total sales to an non-profit of our choice (Ecotrust).
The company has evolved immensely since it’s conception. I’m happy that “LiFT” and the “STAY LiFTED” mantra have remained a constant in my life. On days when things are especially overwhelming, I take a moment to breathe and remind myself to stay lifted.
And, yes, I am related to Napoleon. My father’s father hired a genealogist to trace back the lineage to Corsica and the man himself. We share a similar nose, stature and drive.
It’s obvious, however, that Bobby has that chip that Napoleon was missing about everyone working together for the greater good. Evolution! It’s a beautiful thing!

Bobby Bonaparte founded LiFT Label on a wing and a prayer in Portland, Oregon — we like anyone who’s a sucker for a leap of faith, with the creative chops to make it work. Bobby’s launching his new collection at this year’s Content at Ace Hotel Portland, presented by smart. Steer yourself our way this Sunday — $5 of all tickets go toward Hurricane Sandy relief efforts.

I started drawing “LiFT” with an upwards arrow for the “i” on my skateboards when I was in the 8th grade. I hoped writing “LiFT” would give me more height or ‘lift’ when I was ollieing. Always seeking to progress, I found an ancient silkscreen that belonged to my aunt in my basement and taught myself how to silkscreen LiFT concepts.

I loved the creative freedom silkscreening gave me, I could put anything I wanted onto a shirt. I soon found that shirts and clothing generally were an incredible means of self expression. I began getting my message out and it seemed to resonate with people.  

After interning at Weiden + Kennedy in Tokyo, I took a job in marketing causing my creativity to lagg. After about a year, I got inspired do a line of tanks for summer with a new mission to connect with the community in a positive way, a commitment to the environment, philanthropy, pushing the envelope of design and manufacturing in the Northwest and maintaing an overall positive perspective.


That summer, the line of tank tops sold out and it became clear that I could make a living doing what I love. I left my salaried job to follow my passion for LiFT. Over a year later, LiFT is carried by rad shops in Portland, San Francisco and San Diego and has been featured in local media and on Portlandia and Girls.

I’m incredibly proud that my new line is sewn entirely in Portland. I pattern out the shirts and pants. The crewnecks with Pendleton pockets are knit here by Columbia Knit.  My chambray button up is made of organic cotton/hemp blend and my collaborative shirts with Foster Huntington and Mao Kudo are printed on organic cotton. It’s my goal to use more sustainable and eco-conscious fabrics moving forward, and it’s important to me to give back to the community by donating time, money and supplies to some amazing non-profits like Ecotrust, Salmon Nation, p:ear, The Listening Archive & Focus the Nation. LiFT is a member of 1% for the Planet, an organization founded by Yvon Chouinard, and we donate at least 1% of our total sales to an non-profit of our choice (Ecotrust).

The company has evolved immensely since it’s conception. I’m happy that “LiFT” and the “STAY LiFTED” mantra have remained a constant in my life. On days when things are especially overwhelming, I take a moment to breathe and remind myself to stay lifted.

And, yes, I am related to Napoleon. My father’s father hired a genealogist to trace back the lineage to Corsica and the man himself. We share a similar nose, stature and drive.

It’s obvious, however, that Bobby has that chip that Napoleon was missing about everyone working together for the greater good. Evolution! It’s a beautiful thing!


For the third time, local Portland designers reshape the second floor of Ace Hotel Portland for CONTENT 2012, a live installation of goods and the things and people that inspire them into being. Before you start selflessly shopping for others, you can grab something(s) for yourself at the pop-up shop in the Cleaners, get a cocktail and wander through the Sleep-No-More-esque jungle of the second story with smart, the Portland Mercury, Gretchen Jones and a shimmering roster of talented movers and shakers (and makers, as illustrated above). See everything here and come show your support for this new-fangled notion in Portland: fashion. Post-Gore-Tex, almost post-olive drab, we’re working as fast and as furious as possible to empower those nascent threads of fabulousness and form-over-function-ness in the Portland underground.
See last year here and here captured by Jeremy Pelley of OMFGCo.

For the third time, local Portland designers reshape the second floor of Ace Hotel Portland for CONTENT 2012, a live installation of goods and the things and people that inspire them into being. Before you start selflessly shopping for others, you can grab something(s) for yourself at the pop-up shop in the Cleaners, get a cocktail and wander through the Sleep-No-More-esque jungle of the second story with smart, the Portland Mercury, Gretchen Jones and a shimmering roster of talented movers and shakers (and makers, as illustrated above). See everything here and come show your support for this new-fangled notion in Portland: fashion. Post-Gore-Tex, almost post-olive drab, we’re working as fast and as furious as possible to empower those nascent threads of fabulousness and form-over-function-ness in the Portland underground.

See last year here and here captured by Jeremy Pelley of OMFGCo.


Tavi Gevinson and Anaheed Alani found a quiet spot in Room 1015 before our Rookie Magazine First Anniversary Party during Fashion Week at Ace New York to talk sophomore year goals, grown men, Taylor Swift and the gift and curse of contending with high expectations. 

Thanks to all who shared snapshots of your unforgettable #bitchface with us for our Rookie Yearbook One contest. Y’all are fierce like Sasha. We’ll be in touch with our winners shortly for their Tavi-signed copies. 


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